Tag Archives: Sapelo Island

Lula’s Kitchen of Sapelo Island

Sapelo Island is one of my favorite places in Georgia. It’s mostly untouched, with fewer than 100 people living there. With so few people on the island, there aren’t restaurants, but there is Lula’s Kitchen.

Located in Hog Hammock, Lula Walker is the chef behind Lula’s Kitchen. She grew up on Sapelo Island as Lula Ward and later married George Walker. She now provides meals to visitors on the island. Meals are made by request before you arrive on the island.

On the recent Spring Ramble for the Georgia Trust for Historic Preservation, attendees were treated to a day trip to Sapelo Island, and were fortunate enough to enjoy Mrs. Walker’s food. Fried chicken, collards, mac-n-cheese, squash casserole, and homemade pies were part of the menu. After lunch was done, Mrs. Walker shared stories about her life on the island. She’s cooked for President Jimmy Carter and other dignitaries.

If you ever get the chance to visit Sapelo, I highly recommend ordering ahead for meals cooked by Lula herself. Your host for the island will be able to connect you with Lula or one of her staff members.

The Reynolds Mansion and the Paintings of Athos Menaboni

Reynolds Mansion is located on the southern part of Sapelo Island. Its origins trace back to the early 1800s, when Thomas Spalding, a prominent planter and politician, established a plantation on Sapelo Island. Using enslaved labor, Spalding introduced sugarcane cultivation to Georgia. The mansion was designed by Roswell King and constructed using tabby, a mixture of lime, sand, and oyster shells, a common building material in the Southern coastal States.

In 1912, Howard E. Coffin, an automobile magnate, acquired the island and undertook significant renovations of the Spalding estate, which had fallen into disrepair after the Civil War. The mansion was essentially completely rebuilt. Architect Albert Kahn designed the reconstruction.

The estate changed hands again in 1934 when tobacco heir Richard J. Reynolds Jr. purchased it. Reynolds further expanded the mansion and used it as a private residence and a venue for entertaining guests, including notable figures such as Presidents Calvin Coolidge and Herbert Hoover. 

Prominent Atlanta architect Phillip Trammell Shutze was responsible for the home’s redesign and expansion. Shutze engaged noted painter Athos Menaboni to paint murals throughout the home. Menaboni was an Italian American artist who came to the United States after World War I. The artist was known for his bird paintings, but his work also expanded into other areas. He designed the murals of the Reynolds Mansion’s ground-floor game room, sunroom, and top-floor banquet hall, known as the Circus Room. Photos are below.

The painting of Richard J Reynolds greets visitors in the main entrance.
The painting of Katherine Reynolds is also in the front entranceway.
One of the curved walls in the library highlights Reynolds’s book collection.
Located in the library
Another view of the library
One of several owls that sits atop the bookshelves
Decorative window hqndles
Decorative tassel on chandelier
Hallway from library to children’a nursery
Decorative shade in chileren’a wing
View from children’s wing
Menaboni mural in sunroom
One of the monkey lights in the circus room
Lounge area in front of gameroomj
Image in front lobby of gameroom
Located inside of gameroom

The Feral Cattle of Sapelo Island, Georgia

Sapelo Island, McIntosh County

I was aware of the wild cows of Sapelo Island because of different books and articles I’ve read. I was not aware until the morning I took this photo that they are known to charge. I am grateful I had a conversation with a resident who shared a story of a run in with the cattle.

It was my last day on the island, and I wanted to ensure I didn’t miss any road or path that was ok to travel by golf cart (many roads are too rough for the carts to travel safely). I turned down one path, and as I was traveling, I saw ahead of me between 10 to 15 cows. It was a mixture of older cows and their calves. They immediately started to run towards me. I quickly did a 180 as fast as I could on a sandy road in a golf cart.

As I turned around to see if they were still running towards me, only a bull was left. I quickly snapped a photo on my phone and left.

Sapelo is the only barrier island, and one of the few places in the United States with wild cattle. This is a great article that discusses the Sapelo cattle, which are believed to be tied, minimally, to the time RJ Reynolds Jr. had farming operations on the island or when there were plantations on the island.

I am certain I didn’t say a word, but I know I was shouting many a cuss word as I was trying to get away. I will not forget this experience.

Behavior Cemetery-Sapelo Island, Georgia

McIntosh County

Behavior Cemetery is an active cemetery believed to have been in existence prior to the Civil War. It now serves as a burial ground for the descendants of the earliest Black families who have called Sapelo Island home.

Boston Gardner’s grave features a clock. The clock likely represents the passing of time.

The cemetery was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1996. The cemetery features many handmade markers that span several decades and more recent granite markers. Burial patterns are not in rows, and the older burials towards the middle and back of the cemetery.

Vases can be seen in many cemeteries, especially coastal ones.
Liberty Bell, 1900-1912
A fleur de lis next to the grave of Isabella Robinson, 1858-1889. In religion, it can represent the Holy Trinity. Additionally, some enslaved men and women were branded with a fleur de lis as punishment for trying to escape bondage.
Glasco Grovner, 1856-1928
Mary Lemon, 1906-1919. The star motif can be seen in many coastal cemeteries.
Deacon Grant Johnson, 1892-1956. The letter stamping is common method to mark headstones.
A modern memento
I believe these are giant checkers.
If you look closely, you can see the rebar and the mesh. It gives an idea of how some of these markers were made.

Lighthouse-Sapelo Island, Georgia

Winslow Lewis, a noted lighthouse architect and engineer, designed the Sapelo Island lighthouse. Built in 1820, it is the second-oldest brick lighthouse still in existence in the United States. It is the oldest surviving lighthouse that was designed by Lewis in existence.

The lighthouse was active until 1905. It remained inactive until 1998, when it was restored. It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1997.

Farmers’ Alliance Hall-Sapelo Island, Georgia

McIntosh County

Built as the Sapelo Island outpost for the the Colored Farmers’ Alliance and Cooperative Union, the Farmers’ Alliance Hall serves as gathering place for Sapelo Islanders and their descendants. It was restored in 2008 under the guidance of the Sapelo Island Cultural and Revitalization Society, an organization, an organization dedicated to saving the historic resources on the island..